Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and visitors alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, UNESCO designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive group of world cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it joins a worldwide network of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "stands as proof of its centuries-old culinary traditions and vibrant gastronomic culture," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 cities worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this venerable city is hardly a shock to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has always characterized its essence: an immense passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing discussion from morning until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, evolved, and elevated to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on many street corners, there are small establishments and stalls – little-known treasures that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and complicated. The cook whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will inspire more people globally to learn these tales and visit the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
